I woke up refreshed and after grabbing a Pro Bar for breakfast I was back on the trail passing through McClure Meadow and the rest of Evolution Valley. There are some steep switchbacks at the end of the valley that lead up to Evolution Lake and I was out of steam at the top, probably due to my meager breakfast. I took a break at an amazing spot overlooking the tarn just below Evolution Lake and watched deer drinking from the creek in the small valley below.
I met a colorful woman probably in her 70's who was clearly an experienced hiker, but still it seemed strange to see her alone way out in the wilderness. She slowed down enough to say something about having a nice day on 'the bench'. Maybe she was going to Darwin Bench just above us. Anyway, soon an older gentleman passed by and asked about her. He said they were hiking together and that she was definitely a very 'unique' person. These two were just some of the characters I would meet on the trail today.
Colby Meadow looking toward Evolution Basin.
Wow, the first look at Mt. Mendel, Mt. Darwin and Evolution Lake from the JMT.
The trail along Evolution Lake.
Evolution Lake on the way into Evolution Basin.
As I walked over a small crest Evolution Lake came into view. The contrast between the immense light granite of Mt. Mendel and the deep blue green water of Evolution Lake was amazing. The aqua color of the lake was indescribable. Just as I was walking along the lake a couple of runners passed by with only hydration packs, they seemed completely out of place. It was very strange to see these two cruising along so far out in the wilderness.
Evolution Lake (10,852 ft).
The hike up the Evolution Basin felt like walking on the moon, but with the most crystal clear creeks flowing into amazing lakes and tarns. I was struck by the azure color of Sapphire Lake and then finally Wanda Lake. I have never seen water with such a striking saturated blue color like Wanda Lake. This was becoming the best day on the trail by far.
Crossing Evolution Creek.
Sapphire Lake (10,966 ft) with Mt. Spencer and the side of Mt. Huxley.
Sapphire Lake
Evolution Basin.
Wanda Lake (11,426 ft).
Wanda Lake and the Goddard Divide. (Click for full size)
Muir Hut at the top of Muir Pass (11,955 ft.)
"The Range of Light"
Inside the Muir Hut.
Inside the Muir Hut.
Inside Muir Hut.
Finally at Muir Pass.
Heading south from Muir Pass. Helen Lake on the left. Black Giant (13,330 ft) on the right.
Helen Lake (11,617 ft).
After the final climb to Muir Pass I headed down toward Helen Lake, another crystal clear alpine lake. The lakes on either side of the pass are named after John Muir's daughters. I wished that I could just wander around this area for weeks, but I had to keep moving. On the way down the canyon I passed a large church youth group of 20 or more teens on their way up to the pass. First the bizarre solo woman, the strange ultra marathoners, then the large church group. What would be next?
The water flowing down the sides of the granite canyon walls was beautiful, I could hardly believe this place existed. "I must come back here" I thought to myself almost shouting it out loud, or maybe I did shout it. . . . there didn't seem to be much difference after a week solo in the wilderness.
I was losing light and just kept going as my late afternoon second wind kicked in. I finally found a flat campsite above a small tarn below Black Giant. I set up my bivy and quilt and slept under the stars after eating dinner at sunset.
This is the day I found my trail legs and felt totally acclimated. I woke up feeling strong and rested and after drying out my quilt, bivy and tarp from the condensation and rain I hit the trail. My pack was light (with almost no food) as I walked through the meadows just below Sallie Keys Lakes. I fell into my usual two mile/hour pace and quietly came across two groups of deer in a clearing. The morning fog was just lifting from the meadows and the sky was clear and blue. I made it down the switchbacks to Muir Trail Ranch to collect my resupply and after socializing with some familiar hikers I made my way along the San Joaquin River toward Evolution Valley.
Sunrise on Sallie Keys Lake.
A family of Deer along the trail.
I was starting to see some familiar thru-hikers as we ran into each other at various times along the trail. As I sorted out my resupply more and more people made it to MTR, a popular resupply point at the middle of the JMT. It's been months now since I left the trail and I can't remember all of the names, but we had a good time talking gear and food at the ranch. Talk of food seems to be the main topic of conversation with thru-hikers. One guy joked that his base weight was only eight pounds, but he carried forty pounds of food.
After resupplying my pack weighed 17 pounds with all the food I needed to complete the final 110 miles to Whitney Portal in 7 days.
Entrance to Muir Trail Ranch.
Resupply cabin at Muir Trail Ranch.
Resupply at MTR.
The obligatory ultralight scale photo. 17 pounds for the final 7 days/110 miles.
San Joaquin River.
The trail along the San Joaquin River is beautiful with great views of the river. I passed the Piute Trail Jct. and crossed the bridge into Kings Canyon National Park. Kings Canyon is home to Evolution Valley, Muir Pass, Pinchot Pass, Forester Pass and the other high passes that followed.
Bridge over Piute Creek.
The entry to Kings Canyon.
It was 5:00 pm by the time I reached Franklin Meadow and the switchbacks up to Evolution Valley. I was starting to really hit my stride and in the later afternoons I seemed to have unending energy. I made it up the 700 feet of steep granite steps and switchbacks up to Evolution Valley and in less than an hour I was crossing the creek at Evolution Meadow.
The benefit to traveling in the 'late season' during mid to late September is that there are no crowds and very few mosquitoes. Unfortunately this time of year also means shorter days and by 6:30 pm it was getting dark. It was 7:00 pm before I made it to McClure Meadow and made camp for the night. I slept under the trees with the sound of Evolution Creek quietly passing by.
